Very early on Saturday morning, 2 February 2008, Mariam and I found ourselves waiting for the 436 bus at 3:30am. I had multiple layers on, so I was okay with the weather (I was planning on taking off said layers in the Greek airport), but we were both ridiculously exhausted. One bus ride to Victoria station, one Gatwick Express ride to the airport, and one flight later, we arrived around 12:30pm in Athens (GMT+2)! The first thing we did was text Derek (who was conveniently also in Athens) and Rob (our third travel buddy), and we heard right away from Derek but not from Rob. Undeterred from this, we took the Athens metro (it was scarily clean!) to Syntagma Square, and funnily enough, one of the first people we saw upon exiting the metro station was Derek! He walked with us to our hostel, where we found Rob waiting for us (he’d turned off his phone and had forgotten the PIN number he needed to turn it on).
The four of us went for lunch at a nearby taverna (there are so many of these around, and they
are all lovely), where I had moussaka and a plate of olives. We realized that the taverna owners are really really crafty and understand that it’s hard to not have bread with Greek food, so they just put a basket of bread on the table and charge you for it anyway regardless of whether you actually eat it or not. We did, though, because it was hard to resist when there was so much olive oil and tzatziki in the food! After saying bye to Derek (he had to meet his dad), I realized that my camera memory card was missing as we walked over to the Temple of Zeus and Hadrian’s Gate (we were really close to the tourist-y ruins! Our hostel had a great location .By the way, this picture is not the Temple of Zeus– it’s the Temple of Hephaestos, but more on that later. I just wanted a picture for this paragraph.). I’m really not sure how I lost it, but I bought a new one anyway, and I’m glad I did because I actually still can’t find the old one!
The Temple of Zeus and Hadrian’s Gate were only a short walk away (about 10 minutes, max)
and we got many glimpses of the Acropolis from wherever we were. I used to be a big fan of Ancient Greece and its mythology and all that, but I couldn’t remember anything that I used to know during this trip, unfortunately! (I’ve noticed that I tend to be a very naive traveler, in that I’ll go places and then look up information on where I’ve been. Oh well) It was all a very sort of philosophical experience, though, which sounds really lame and cheesy, I know, but it was really bizarre to think about how long ago the ruins were built and how impermanent life really was/is. Um, anyway.
After we were done gaping at the ruins, we had a wander around downtown Athens, which
was quickly endearing itself to me. Rob and I had heard that you only need one day in Athens, and that it’s dirty and grungy, but I found it to be a really nice city. This may have been because we were in one of the nicer, more tourist-friendly parts, but I still liked it a lot. We went up to the Acropolis in search of a view of the city, even, and sat on the Areopagus for a bit. After wandering around some more and having a visit at the 1896 Olympic Stadium (from the first modern Olympic games!! So crazy!!), we went for dinner at another taverna (saganaki is a beautiful thing, and so was having it with more tzatziki) before going to a local wine bar down the street. We didn’t have wine, though, instead opting for ouzo! I’d developed a taste for anise/licorice in Amsterdam, so I enjoyed our drinks, and once we were done with that, we went back to the hostel and basically collapsed from exhaustion.
The next day we got up pretty early and got up to the Acropolis right around 8:30am. Its shadow dominates Athens, and once we were up there, it was easy to see why. The ruins were incredible! Mariam was especially thrilled to be at the Theatre of Dionysus, which was really cool, and we saw a lot of random ruins as well, but nothing can compare to the Parthenon and its imposing figure. It was mind-boggling, thinking about all the things the Acropolis and its ruins have been through. We followed up our climb with breakfast at a taverna (we all got a sampler of moussaka, grape leaves, sausage, and feta) and then a visit to the Roman Agora (it’s weird
to think that the Roman stuff is actually relatively new! Relatively being the key word) and the Ancient Agora, the old centre of town and such. It was amazing to think about how people like Socrates and other such philosophers lectured in the very place that we were standing! We also saw a very old temple. It was called the Temple of Hephaestos and is the best-preserved temple in all of the lands. After the Agoras, we grabbed some gelato (I had nutella and hazelnut) and snacks (yay for spanakopita!) before attempting to get to the bus station. I say ‘attempting’ because the hostel told us to ask for “Bus Terminal B”, which got us absolutely nowhere with the cabdrivers until we found this kind old man who helped us in Greek. We made it in time to buy our bus tickets to Litochoro, and in no time we were leaving Athens!
During our 5 hour bus ride, we discussed the Greek language (Rob and I had a general familiarity with the alphabet due to our math and physics studies, though he definitely knew more than me!) and how we could actually read the names of cities and stuff in the alphabet, attempted to learn how to say “thank you”, played some cards, did sudoku, read a bit, procrastinated reading, and slept. Good times were had by all, until we realized that the Greek buses
have this very odd system of dropping people off at the side of the highway and expecting said people to just walk to wherever they need to go/get other buses. Luckily, though, our next hostel’s owner told us to call him when we got to the side of the highway and he actually came and picked us up! We were the only people in the place, literally, which was attached to their family restaurant, but we were totally okay with that. After walking out to the beach, we came back inside and had dinner at around 9:30pm (calamari!) to the sounds of Independence Day on the television (it was so random.). After playing more cards upstairs, we called it a night.
We finally had a lazy (and absurd, as you’ll soon read!) day on Monday, despite plans for
getting up early and watching the sunrise (it was too foggy to see anything, so Rob didn’t wake Mariam and I up and instead we slept until 9! (which felt really late to us. In retrospect, maybe this trip is why I’ve started going to bed around midnight and waking up early)). We had a seriously amazing (and provided!) breakfast at the downstairs restaurant (cheese and meat, bread, phyllo pastry things, eggs, feta, general deliciousness) before taking a taxi into downtown Litochoro. This town is at the foot of Mount Olympus (yes, that Mount Olympus) and was really cute. We were at a loss for what to do though, since we had wanted to leave our last night open and didn’t know where we could go for the day. We were debating between Meteora, Delphi, and Vergina, and finally decided on Vergina since we wanted to stay in the area because Rob’s mom and younger brother were driving up from Athens to meet up with us.
Our book said that the ruins at Vergina (the tombs of Alexander the Great’s family) were closed on Mondays, but we found a tour website that said they were open until 7 on Mondays, so we
decided to trust the website. Bad choice! Four buses later (we went through Katerini, Thessaloniki, Veria, and Vergina), we realized that not only were we in backwater Greece, in a town where we saw more cats in heat than actual people, the ruins were closed and we’d just wasted an entire day in Greece. To be perfectly honest, the situation struck Mariam and I as completely and utterly hilarious, while Rob was really actually pissed off. We caught a bus back to Veria (thank goodness that last bus ride was only about 20 minutes long!), finally got in touch with Rob’s mother, who was totally lost in Northern Greece looking for our hostel, had dinner (we all got sauteéd beef with chips-as-in-french-fries), wandered about some Byzantine ruins, and caught a bus back to Katerini, which kindly dropped us off on the highway next to the exit for Litochoro. Thanks, Greek transportation! A 45min walk down various nighttime roads got us finally back to the hostel at a rather late hour (it was probably around 11 when we got back. when I say late, I mean late for walking on the highway. Seriously, they really do this! The bus dropped this lady off on the highway before us and her husband was waiting for her on the side of the road!), and the hostel owner, Kostos, announced warningly that Rob’s mother had arrived (he probably thought that she was checking up on Rob!) and the five of us had an amazing dinner of ouzo, saganaki, and freshly caught and fried fish before going to bed.
We woke up rather early on Tuesday with the intention of driving partially up Mount Olympus before Mariam and I returned to Athens, so after another huge breakfast (it had basically the same thing that breakfast the previous day did, and yes, I do feel that it was totally necessary to detail our meals), we did just that. The drive was terrifying, as mountain drives tend to be, but the view was spectacular and gave us plenty of stuff to think about on our 5 hour bus drive back to Athens. We had lunch at another taverna (saganaki and baklava!), totally glad to be back in Athens after the sketchy times in Northern Greece, and did some souvenir shopping before flying back. And that is all!
(BTW, all the pictures are here.)